Last nights camping passed without incident and, given that I’m a light sleeper, I’m amazed I managed to get a few hours decent kip. As you may have guessed, I’m trying to alternate nights under canvas with those indoors (weather permitting).
![Soemimizu Henro Trail](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-274.jpeg)
The Soemimizu Henro Trail path climbs steeply up to 400m through the woods before levelling off at the ridge line. The trees here were quite dense and I found myself walking through countless fresh spider webs. I tried to use my wooden staff to fend them off but to no avail. The day was off to an icky start.
![Shikoku train](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-276.jpeg)
After 5km I reached the Nanako-tōge Pass where the trail continues through rice fields and along roads parallel to the single-track rail line. Every time I see a train I wonder how long it will take me to get where it’s going.
![Tin Man henro](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-275.jpeg)
Along this stretch, I met a henro dressed completely from head to toe in a spotless white getup with matching bags and accessories. He reminded me of a less talkative Tin Man from The Wizard of Oz.
![Hu Ji Yuu An](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-277.jpeg)
While walking through the small village of Niida I heard a voice call out “henro-san” from a nearby house. I was invited into the garden of Ishizaka-san who runs a nice rest spot called Hu Ji Yuu An (風自遊庵). The Tin Man was already there and we enjoyed ice cold mint water and some snacks together. Afterwards, I left a short thank-you message in their notebook.
![ケルン Curry](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-278.jpeg)
Since I hadn’t had a proper meal yesterday I stopped for an early lunch at a nice-looking cafe/restaurant at around 11 am where I had a delicious vegetable curry and some fresh yuzu juice. Yuzu (similar to grapefruit) is grown all over Shikoku.
![Antique toy store](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-279.jpeg)
2km later, just before Iwamoto-ji (岩本寺 – 37), I walked past an old antique store which had a weird array of vintage Japanese and western toys. Shikoku is the land that time forgot.
![Iwamoto-ji Gate](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-282.jpeg)
![Iwamoto-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-280.jpeg)
![Iwamoto-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-281.jpeg)
After putting my pack down at Iwamoto-ji I suddenly began to feel extremely tired so finished the usual routine fairly quickly and continued towards the minshuku I had booked for the night.
![Ichinose Trail](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-284.jpeg)
There was another nice wooded section called the Ichinose Trail and if you follow the map in the English book, rather than the signs, you can bypass a large part of the main road beyond it.
Arriving at the minshuku around 3.30 pm I was a bit disappointed to find a rather run-down old house. It irks me that the good minshuku are the same price as the bad ones and there isn’t any way to know which is which without word-of-mouth info. However, the old gentleman running the place was kind enough and I’m glad for a roof over my head tonight.
Information
Distance walked: 32 km / 42,000 steps
Temples visited: 37
Overnight lodgings: Hirota (民宿広田) – Minshuku
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