Aside from the low whirr of a nearby vending machine and the occasional passing vehicle, last nights camping under Ashizuri hut was a success.

Camping at Ashizuri hut

Fire Wood

Village stream

After disbanding camp, the trail almost immediately dips into another sleepy fishing village where the only movement came from the 7.30am bus trundling through the narrow streets.

Henro trail beside tunnel

Upon leaving the village you reach a newly built junction and tunnel which isn’t even on Google Maps yet. The henro sign points left along the coastal road but actually you should carry on towards the tunnel and then turn left into the woods shortly before its mouth.

Fallen tree

The trail through the forest cuts off the corner before rejoining the main road and then entering Nakanohama town.

Fish ramen broth

Walking through the streets I came across a large warehouse with smoke billowing out of its windows. Looking inside there were huge vats boiling some sort of fish. A local man told me it was for making ramen broth, and upon hearing that I was from the UK said he’d once sailed through Gibraltar.

Hanging garlic and onions

I’ve noticed that many households hang onions and garlic cloves over their front porch, presumably grown in their own gardens and fields. People also leave bags of surplus fruit and vegetables in small boxes along the main roads that others can buy for 100 yen or so.

Tosa-Shimizu harbour

After another woodland detour, I entered Tosa-Shimizu city around 10am passing colourful boats in the harbour. I stopped at a convenience store to use their wifi to upload yesterday’s post and shortly later none other than Y-san arrived!

It’s become a bit of a running joke that we keep meeting at Lawson’s and, as we sat chatting outside, a young guy came out and handed us each a bottle of drink as osettai. We thanked him and took a few photos, it was a very kind gesture on such a hot day.

Y-san is taking a different route than me from now on so I doubt we’ll bump into each other again but you never know. On parting ways, we shook hands and exchanged name slips.

Tosa-Shimizu Coast

On my way out of the city I bought a bento lunch box of fried chicken with rice and found a spot overlooking the coast to eat it.

Tosa-Shimizu Hut 35

At Mejika-no-sato michi-no-eki I stopped for an ice cream and found another great henro hut which has a platform that would be suitable for sleeping on. I don’t think I’d want to sleep outside without a tent though as you’d be eaten alive by insects.

Tatsukushui Minokoshi Rocks

A short distance later at Tatsukushi Minokoshi (竜串見残し) you can take the Shikoku-no-michi trail along the shore over another geological wonder.

Tatsukushui Minokoshi Rocks

Sandstone and mudstone have been deposited in alternating layers and wave erosion have created unique rocks which look a bit like bamboo trees lying on their side!

Tatsukushui Minokoshi Rocks

There was a nice campsite nearby but, without any clean clothes and a looming dark sky overhead, decided against it.

The final 8km was a bit of a boring slog along the coastal road through many long tunnels, although for a change they had raised sidewalks. I arrived at the small minshuku I booked around 4.30pm and was relieved to find that it was a good one.

Tomorrow I’ll be saying goodbye to the coast and my goal is to reach Sukumo (宿毛市) come rain or shine. If you’re following the guide book, that’s route E (the longest).


Distance walked: 40 km / 50,200 steps
Temples visited: None
Overnight lodgings: Kanaesaki (平林渡船民宿) – Minshuku

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  1. Rob says:

    Nice work David! You are a very consistent blogger. Not a surprise 🙂
    I miss walking in rural Japan early in the mornings…

  2. Mo says:

    Hi David! Very keen to see how the next few days go. I am planning my henro and can’t quite decide which route to take from here. Are you going via Odo coast? Or heading north through Otsuki town?

    • David says:

      Hey Mo, if the weather improves I plan to take the mountain trail north but if it continues raining I’ll head to the coast since there are more facilities/shelters.

  3. Roy says:

    I stumbled upon your blog a long time ago and I find myself now eagerly awaiting these daily posts. Your journey sounds wonderful, as do the people you encounter. I hope your good fortunes continue! 🙂

  4. Athena says:

    I giggled when I saw your tent set up! It’s like what I did at the Susaki Henro hut. I don’t feel so ridiculous anymore (even though I’m not ashamed of it because it worked).

    I often bought from those 100 Yen stalls! It’s yummy, reasonable, and usually quite fresh (even though the sun ages them pretty quickly). I think the other reason is because I’ve worked with farmers here, and I know they really care about their produce. The amount they’re asking for is more token, and they just don’t want to see their stuff go to waste.

    Looking forward to hearing more about this route, as I ended up bussing all the way up because I was short on time.

    I’m glad to hear you keep running into Y-san. I find that happens, and it’s one of the things that made me feel connected to something bigger when walking mostly alone (which I enjoyed).

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