Day 29: Manganji

Despite yesterday’s exertions, sleep didn’t come easily last night. I kept fitfully trying to swat imaginary bugs and by sunrise was feeling like the resident ghost of the old farmhouse.

Shōgandō Pass

Luckily most of the trail today was downhill and by 7.30 am I was continuing along the Shōgandō Pass looking like a zombie monk dressed for a monsoon.

Shōgandō Pass

A mist hung in the air and it was drizzling with increasing intensity. My ankles were pretty sore from yesterday but thankfully the thick layer of moist leaves underfoot provided a cushion.

Manganji Temple

After 12km I arrived at Manganji temple (not one of the 88) around 10.30 am. I was surprised to be greeted by a lady who appeared the look after the place.

Manganji Custodian

Apparently, Ōmori-San had called ahead to let her know a foreign henro would be passing by. She gave me a short tour of the temple and generously prepared a cup of tea and some snacks which were most welcome.

Unfortunately, in my sleep-deprived state, I could only process about 1% of what she was telling me but nodded along, trying not to seem rude.

Noizaka Henro Trail

I left a little after 11 am and joined the Noizaka trail which bypasses the main road and a long tunnel. There’s a steep section near the end but nothing too strenuous.

Noizaka Henro Trail

On the approach to Uwajima city (宇和島市) I stopped at a Joyful roadside chain restaurant for lunch. It was the busiest place I’d seen for weeks and I enjoyed people-watching while drying off.

Arriving in Uwajima at 3 pm I bumped into none other than Y-San at the Business Hotel I’d booked. It was a total surprise since we’d taken completely different routes four days earlier. Nice to see a familiar face in an unfamiliar city.

I rounded off the day in a nice coffee house called TAO (珈琲亭) which seemed to be the only place open in the area. It overlooks a covered shopping arcade which was eerily empty.

I hope to make it through to Meiseki-ji (明石寺 – 43) tomorrow but rain is forecast so I won’t push too hard.


Distance walked: 24 km / 37,000 steps
Temples visited: None
Overnight lodgings: Uwajima Terminal (宇和島ターミナルホテル) – Business Hotel

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David avatar

7 responses

  1. Hisato Oomori avatar
    Hisato Oomori

    Thank you for your wonderful blog of “NAKAMITCHI”.

  2. Did you happen to eat some of the red sea brim that is famous in Uwajima? Speaking of food, do you want some restaurant suggestions as you go?

    1. I’m afraid I missed the red sea brim but any restaurant suggestions would be most welcome!

      1. I’ll try to stay a day or two ahead of you. As you know, some restaurants have limited hours, and I’ve no idea when you’ll be walking past. Still, if you do happen to eat at any of these places, please let me know how it went 🙂

        Ozu City; (ramen) (famous garden – not food!)
        There’s a tsuyado at Bangai #8 Toyogabashi.

        Um… there’s not much worth mentioning between Ozu and Matsuyama. I’m sure you’ll find plenty of good food, though.

        1. Super, I’ll try and check these out tomorrow! Thanks!

  3. ann lancaster avatar
    ann lancaster

    Hi David,
    Really enjoying your writings. Hopefully you are enjoying the trails as much as we enjoy reading it!

    1. Thanks Ann, appreciated!


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