Food Japan Tokyo Travel

A Week in Tokyo Part 5 – Marushizu in Tsukiji

Not far from Tokyo’s frenetic Tsukiji Fish Market can be found Marushizu (丸静) – one of the best places to eat freshly grilled eel, known as unagi (うなぎ). One of my colleagues took me there for lunch and it was quite a treat!

Unagi Restaurant

Tucked down a narrow alleyway, the restaurant isn’t very easy to spot from the road unless you know where to look (see the map at the bottom).

Kabayaki Restaurant

As a family-run affair, Marushizu has changed location over the generations but still serves exactly the same single dish as it always has: unajū (鰻重) – grilled eel served on a bed of rice in a lacquered box.

Kabayaki Eel

The only option you have when ordering is the size – Regular (Choku), Large (Muraji), Extra Large (Omi), XX-Large (Mikoto), XXX-Large (Oh) – I had the large version. It comes served with a clear liver soup (Kimosui) and pickles (Oshinko).

Eel Restaurant

The unagi fillets are grilled and then steamed before being served with a sweetened soy-based glaze called tare. They precook the eel so the service is pretty fast. There are only around a dozen seats so there may be a queue at lunchtime.

Unagi on Rice

Like with Jiro and his sushi, the chief at Marushizu has clearly spent a lifetime perfecting his art and honestly, this was among the best food I had in Japan – so simple yet so delicious. I really appreciate the way so many Japanese restaurants are dedicated to a single dish or style of food which eschew variety for quality and taste.

Highly recommended – around 2,000 – 3,000 JPY per head.


Originally from the UK, David is designer and wanderer currently based in Kamakura. Prior to this, he lived in China and longs to explore more of this vast and varied land. He started Randomwire in 2003 to chronicle his travels and occasional musings. Feel free to drop him a line.

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