After a good night’s sleep at Sekisho-in temple, I got up early to attend the 7 am morning prayer service. It was cold to the bone in the main hall which I was surprised to find packed to overflowing with adherents and curious bystanders like myself. I sat next to a mother with her disabled son who had a special prayer said for him.
Immediately after the service, a simple breakfast of rice and tofu with pickled vegetables was served by the monks. Most of the other foreigners picked it over with somewhat confused expressions but I ate as much as possible to save energy for the hike ahead.
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I headed outside and began walking along the leafy path through the enormous cemetery that leads to the Okunoin (奥の院), the site Kōbō-Daishi’s mausoleum.
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In contrast to my last trip here, which had been rather hurried, it was much more relaxed this time and I was able to enjoy the morning sun illuminating the unending rows of solemn tombstones in peace.
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Back at the temple, I packed my bag and then walked for about 10 minutes to the trailhead where the Kohechi begins. The entrance is a little off the main road; follow signs for Kongō Sanmai-in (金剛三昧院) to find it.
If you’re planning on doing the same I recommend picking up the official map from the tourist information office nearby, it includes a huge amount of useful information to help plan ahead. They can also be downloaded.
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The morning took me across a flat-topped ridgeline shaded by trees. At around 1000m it was chilly but not unpleasant while walking at a brisk pace.
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After around 5km the trail dips down into a valley in order to cross the Odonogawa river. On the other side, I passed through a tiny village with a small cluster of traditional houses and a solitary post box.
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Shortly afterwards the trail joins the Koya-Ryujin Skyline (高野龍神スカイライン) for about 2km before heading steeply up onto the Tainohara-sen forestry road.
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I stopped and sat on a log overlooking the valley to eat my bento lunch. Only one other hiker had passed me the whole morning and it was blissfully quiet.
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Further down the road is a lookout point with a covered picnic bench which would make a good spot to camp. Golden susuki (ススキ) pampas grass glistened in the sunlight, gently swaying in the breeze.
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It was here that I spotted the first sign warning of bears in the area. I reluctantly got out my bear bell and attached it to my backpack. As much as I hate the noise it’s better than a Revenant-style encounter.
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Looking at the map I noticed that reaching my accommodation for the night was going to require doubling back on myself if I followed the official route. Hoping to avoid this I spotted what appeared to be an unsignposted shortcut that led down the valley side.
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My gamble paid off and I reached Minshuku Kawarabi-so (かわらび荘) around 2.45 pm. Nobody seemed to be around so I explored a beautiful patch of autumn foliage beside the river, crossed by a rickety red bridge.
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Wooden planks had been placed on the bridge to prevent anyone plunging through the rusty mesh but the planks themselves had become rotten so it was with some trepidation that I crossed over.
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After a short while, the owner of the minshuku arrived and I was able to check-in. Before dinner, they drove me a short distance down to road to Nosegawa Spa (ホテルのせ川) where I relaxed in the onsen before checking out the small shrine next door.
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Here I bumped into a friendly retired Japanese couple who were staying at the same place and walking in the same direction. We got chatting over a nutritious dinner of Japanese hot pot and discussed the route ahead. I lamented about Brexit which was being talked about on the TV news broadcast.
Overall it had been a fairly gentle hike which I was pleased about because I knew the hardest section was yet to come.
Information
Distance walked: 22 km / 32,000 steps
Overnight lodgings: Minshuku Kawarabi-so (かわらび荘)
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