Dark clouds hung from the sky as I set out to conquer the final temple this morning. Usually this would be a cause for concern, but with the end in sight it only emboldened me to walk faster.
![Dark skies over Sanuki](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-728.jpeg)
Small school kids pattered past wearing matching yellow raincoats while older volunteers ushered them across puddle-strewn roads.
![Old house in Nagaonishi](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-730.jpeg)
![Maeyama Dam](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-731.jpeg)
After an hour I reached Maeyama Dam and skirted around its edge, arriving at Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon around 8.30 am.
![Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-734.jpeg)
The facility, run by an NPO, has a small museum chronicling the history of the pilgrimage and presents walking pilgrims with a certificate of completion (I was no. 2505 since July 2015).
![Ancient Osame-fuda](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-732.jpeg)
It was interesting to see the ancient osame-fuda (name slips) on display. It must have been pretty laborious to write each one out by hand from scratch.
![Hut at Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-733.jpeg)
Beside the building is a large hut which, judging by the tent in situ, is fine to camp under.
Just as I was leaving the rain began but it was light enough not to have to don my full rain gear. Since I had about 12km of mountain to climb I would have just ended up a sweaty mess anyway.
![Trail up Mt. Nyotai](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-735.jpeg)
I choose to follow route B up to Mt. Nyotai because it seemed to have the longest offroad section and thus the most tree cover.
![Fallen tree blocking road](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-736.jpeg)
Along the way, I tried to picture in my mind all of the people who had helped me get this far. There have been so many that to be honest, I think I must have missed a few.
![Mt. Nyotai Peak](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-737.jpeg)
Except for the rocky final kilometre, the ascent was pretty forgiving and I was at the 741m peak by 11 am. Unfortunately, the clouds had obscured what would have been a spectacular view. Fittingly the small shrine here contains a statue of the god of rain.
![Trail down to Ōkubo-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-738.jpeg)
![View from Mt. Nyotai](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-739.jpeg)
From here it was a half-hour walk downhill to Ōkubo-ji (大窪寺 – 88). Below the clouds I finally got a glimpse of the landscape stretching as far as the eye could see.
![Ōkubo-ji Temple](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-742.jpeg)
Walking around to enter through Ōkubo-ji’s main gate, I had half expected something a little grander than the other temples but instead, it was much like the rest. Given the nature of the quest, the understatement was apt.
I almost had the whole place to myself and this time I went through the rites more slowly than usual, trying to savour the moment and appreciate how far I’d come over the last 7 weeks.
![Staffs at Ōkubo-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-741.jpeg)
Some people choose to leave their wooden staff here, for a fee, considering it as a symbol that their journey is over.
![Ōkubo-ji Main Hall](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-743.jpeg)
Unfortunately, the silence was broken 15 minutes later by the arrival of a tour group who immediately took up most of the space in the small courtyard while they took a group photo.
Retreating to the temple office, I got my book stamped and then walked back down the steps to a restaurant just outside the main gates.
![Udon](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-744.jpeg)
There I bumped into a friendly couple I’d met on the trail earlier who recommended me a special udon dish served in a cauldron of broth with all sorts of vegetables and pork.
![Bamboo Steam](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-746.jpeg)
Feeling content I began the 10km descent down to where I’m staying tonight. The rain had intensified so I stopped under the eaves of a farmhouse to suit up.
![Stepping stones across stre](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-747.jpeg)
After some nice woodland detours, I arrived at Shirotori-onsen at 3 pm. This gave me plenty of time to wash my clothes, take a bath, get organised and relax before dinner.
There’s more I’d like to write today but I think it’s going to take a few weeks of decompression before I can get the right words out. Needless to say, it was a momentous day.
Tomorrow I’m heading back to Ryōzen-ji (霊山寺 – 1) where this all began to close the circle.
Information
Distance walked: 26 km / 36,200 steps
Temples visited: 88
Overnight lodgings: Shirotori-onsen (白鳥温泉) – Onsen
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