Today the weather didn’t seem to be able to make its mind up about whether it was merely depressed or openly crying.
I left Marugame at 7am, heading east towards Gōshō-ji (郷照寺 – 78). Even though it wasn’t raining yet the humidity was making my clothes stick to my skin and the outlook for the rest of the day didn’t look very bright.
![Akiba Jinja](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-663.jpeg)
![Old shop near Gōshō-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-664.jpeg)
After reaching Akiba Shrine the route takes you down a nicely preserved old street with a few traditional shops. Since it was only 8 am nothing was open yet.
![Gōshō-ji Temple](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-665.jpeg)
![Gōshō-ji Bell](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-666.jpeg)
![Anpanman in Sakaide City](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-667.jpeg)
The temple rites soon over, I continued through Sakaide City (坂出市) which, like Marugame, didn’t seem to have much going on.
![Yasoba-no-mizu](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-668.jpeg)
Shortly before reaching Tennō-ji (天皇寺 – 79) I passed Kiyomizu-ya restaurant next to Yasoba-no-mizu temple. Sitting beside a pretty pond, it looked like a nice place for lunch but was too early so I continued.
![Shiraminegū Shrine Gate](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-670.jpeg)
It started raining almost as soon as I arrived at Tennō-ji, having first walked through the intersecting Shiraminegū Shrine.
![Shiraminegū Shrine Lion](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-669.jpeg)
I headed straight for cover at the temple office so I could get out my wet weather gear. Since the rain wasn’t too heavy I just put on my backpack and hat cover to avoid getting any more sweaty than I already was.
The man in the office asked the usual questions while I was getting prepared; Where are you from? Where are you heading today? How did you know about the pilgrimage? I probably answer these questions three or four times a day but don’t really mind since I’m walking alone most of the time and it’s an opportunity to have a conversation.
![Udon Yamashita](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-671.jpeg)
Just before reaching Sanuki Kokubun-ji (讃岐国分寺 – 80) I stopped for lunch at Udon Yamashita around 11.30 am. I was their first customer of the day and ordered a large bowl of cold udon with tempura and fried chicken since it would be my main meal today.
At Kokubun-ji the Daishi hall was combined with the shop and temple office which seemed more geared around money-making than prayer.
![Henro Direction Stickers](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-673.jpeg)
![Stormy Mountains](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-672.jpeg)
![Sanuki Henro Trail stream](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-679.jpeg)
With 15km already under my belt, the 7km route up the mountain to Shiromine-ji (白峯寺 – 81) was made more difficult by the fact that the rain had turned the path into a stream.
![Japanese Self Defence Force training area](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-678.jpeg)
I passed a Self Defence Force training area with “keep out” signs posted all over the barbed wire fence.
![Dragonfly henro](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-687.jpeg)
While taking a breather a tame dragonfly landed on my stick and sat calmly for a few minutes while we contemplated each other. It had the most beautifully intricate wings.
![Shiromine-ji Temple](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-676.jpeg)
![Shiromine-ji Trees](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-677.jpeg)
Trying to dodge the muddy water and not slip over on the rocks while juggling a heavy pack meant I didn’t reach Shiromine-ji till 2.30 pm but by the time I did the rain had thankfully stopped.
![Leaves at Shiromine-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-675.jpeg)
Post-rain the trees looked stunning.
![Sanuki Henro Trail](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-680.jpeg)
Situated at the opposite end of the ridge, Negoro-ji (根香寺 – 82) is reached via the Sanuki Henro Trail. It too was severely waterlogged but at least it was fairly level.
![Go down sign](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-681.jpeg)
![Goshikidai Hut](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-682.jpeg)
On the way, I met Noguchi-San, another henro who was heading in the same direction. Shortly before Negoro-ji we reached Goshikidai hut (51) which is where I planned to stay the night.
![Goshikidai Hut Interior](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-689.jpeg)
Fully enclosed with a sleeping loft, water, electricity and western-style toilets, it’s the best hut I’ve seen on the whole island. Noguchi-San had been planning to descend back to Kokubun-ji but after seeing the hut he decided to stay too.
![Noguchi-San](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-683.jpeg)
Since it was already 4.30 pm I left my pack and continued 10 minutes further to Negoro-ji so I could get my book stamped before the temple office closed. It’s a small temple but with a beautiful tree-covered approach.
Afterwards, I headed back to the hut and had a simple dinner of some food I’d picked up at a combini earlier before settling down for the evening.
![Okyu Acupuncture](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-686.jpeg)
Unfortunately, my Japanese wasn’t up to much of a conversation with Noguchi-San but he did show me a sort of acupuncture where instead of using needles you set fire to a small pad that you stick on pressure points (okyu お灸). I tried it on my legs but didn’t notice much effect!
Tomorrow I’ll reach Takamatsu City where I’m planning a bit of sightseeing in the afternoon so less walking than the 33km today 🙂
Information
Distance walked: 33 km / 46,100 steps
Temples visited: 78–82
Overnight lodgings: Goshikidai Hut (へんろ小屋五色台) – Hut
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