After the 30km double-mountain hike yesterday, it was hard getting up this morning but I dragged myself out of the futon at 5.30 am in order to make the 6 am prayer service (Asa Gongyou) at Byōdō-ji (平等寺 – 22) right next door to Sazanka where I was staying.
![Asa Gongyou at Byōdō-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-107.jpeg)
I felt a little awkward as I was the only one in attendance but luckily only my ears were required. The monk, a friend of Masako’s, chanted non-stop for an hour with the occasional help from a pair of cymbals and a rattle (I’m sure it has an official name) which he rung every so often.
![Statue of Kobo Daishi at Byōdō-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-108.jpeg)
I had no idea what he was chanting but it was the perfect meditation to begin the day. Afterwards, he explained some paintings of Kōbō-Daishi in the temple. I think I got the gist of it.
![Aratano rice fields](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-109.jpeg)
![Beware of snakes!](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-110.jpeg)
Heading back to Sazanka I had breakfast at 7 am before hitting the road just before 8 am. Walking through Aratano I noticed a sign warning of snakes. I’ve already seen a couple of small ones but apparently, only the big ones are dangerous.
![Fields and mountains](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-112.jpeg)
![Home near Aratano](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-111.jpeg)
About 5km later the small road I was following merged into the larger Route 55 main road which I’ll be following for the next few days.
![Kiki village](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-114.jpeg)
Luckily I was able to get off the main road within 2km and followed an alternative route along the coast which passes through some nice small fishing villages.
![Tainohama beach](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-113.jpeg)
The first village I passed through was Yuki where I took a short break on Tainohama beach. They have good camping facilities with showers if you were thinking of stopping here.
![Henro hut at Kiki](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-115.jpeg)
Close by is the village of Kiki where I nearly got lost by walking up route 289 by mistake. Luckily not much time was lost and I found a nice henro hut overlooking the harbour to have my lunch (a banana and rice ball).
![Yamaza Pass](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-116.jpeg)
Continuing along the coast through the Yamaza Pass I bumped into another pilgrim I’d met yesterday; a Japanese-American woman from Dallas, Texas who was doing the pilgrimage for the second time in two years!
![Yakuō-ji from Ebisu-do](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-117.jpeg)
Founding the corner of the peninsula I got my first look at Yakuō-ji (薬王寺 – 23) from Ebisu-do rising up from the mountains beyond. With the goal in sight, I quickened my pace for the final 2km.
![Ebisu-do from Hiwasa](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-118.jpeg)
![Yakuō-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-122.jpeg)
After walking through the small town of Hiwasa I reached Yakuō-ji at 2 pm. Set on a number of levels rising up the mountain I didn’t fancy carrying my heavy pack all the way up but luckily the staff in the shop at the bottom let me leave it there.
![Wooden staffs at Yakuō-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-119.jpeg)
There was a large tour group praying when I arrived so I let them do their thing before paying my respects. I noticed many of them dropping 1 yen coins on the steps going up which is apparently for good fortune.
![Leaves at Yakuō-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-121.jpeg)
![Hiwasa from Yakuō-ji](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-120.jpeg)
Looking out over Hiwasa and the 20km path I had just trodden it felt well worth it although my feet might have had a different opinion.
Luckily Yakuoji Onsen is right next door so I popped in for a short soak. As a stereotypically reserved Brit, public nudity is not usually our thing but the needs of my feet outweighed any ingrained fears!
Body refreshed I stopped by a small udon restaurant to top up my energy before continuing along Route 55 towards my destination.
![Black Phillip: Wouldst thou like to live deliciously?](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-124.jpeg)
There was something rather surreal about passing through small ancient farmsteads while walking along a busy highway. At one point I passed a goat standing alone in a field which sent shivers down my spine when I remembered a certain film.
![Hiwasa Tunnel](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-126.jpeg)
![Yokoko Pass](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-125.jpeg)
Feeling pretty beat I reached the gaping mouth of Hiwasa Tunnel. I had planned to take the Yokoko Pass to go around it but there had been a landslide and the old henro trail looked none too safe so I decided to take my chances in the tunnel. Luckily a handrail separated the traffic from walkers.
![Uchikoshiji Temple](https://randomwire.com/wp-content/uploads/image-127.jpeg)
800 meters later I emerged back into the sunlight and less than 20 minutes later arrived at Uchikoshi-ji temple where I hoped to stay the night. I bumped into the monk walking his dog around the grounds who kindly gave me permission to sleep in the annexe. With a kitchen, bedroom and shower it was way more than I imagined and I’m ending the day feeling very lucky once again.
It’s over 70km to temple 24 and with rain forecast, for the next two days, I don’t want to overdo it. Over and out for now.
Information
Distance walked: 30 km / 43,000 steps
Temples visited: 23
Overnight lodgings: Uchikoshi-ji (駅路寺打越寺) – Tsuyado
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