Photography Tokyo Travel

A Week in Tokyo Part 4 – Shinjuku Yakitori Alley

With its futuristic skyscrapers and bright lights, Shinjuku (新宿) presents the archetypal Tokyo that is the face of many a travel guide and movie. And rightly so – to the uninitiated the heady mix of neon and swarms of people is intoxicating.

Shinjuku Evening

After spending most of the day walking around Sumida, and the Tokyo Skytree, I came back to Shinjuku and, after navigating one of the stations 200 or so exits, found myself on the east side amid the rush-hour crowds.

UNIQLO x Bic Camera

A short distance away I came across the new Bicqlo store which is a mash-up of two Japanese giants – clothes emporium UNIQLO and electronics retailer Bic Camera. If you ever want to buy a pair of socks and a microwave at the same time this is the place to go.

Yakitori Alley

Tucked between the tracks on the west side of Shinjuku Station lies a decidedly less glitzy collection of small eateries and bars known as Memory Lane (Omoide Yokocho) or colloquially as Piss Alley (Shonben Yokocho) for its lack of restrooms prior to being rebuilt after a fire in 1999.

Yakitori Bar

Here hungry commuters and passers-by can fill up on grilled skewers of yakitori (chicken), motsu-nabe (offal) and hormone-yaki (organ meats) in the rather run-down and cramped atmosphere which purposefully evokes post-war Japan.

Yakitori Restaurant

The smoke-filled restaurants are open 24 hours and each accommodates half a dozen or so patrons. Some have English menus, many don’t.

Omoide Yokocho Restaurant

Liver, chickens hearts and gizzards await the adventurous inside…


The smells are enticing as is the generally affordable food that is on offer along with the half-drunk salarymen who will be your dining companions.

Yakitori Alley

Yakitori Alley also offers a great backdrop for photographers – check out for some far better work than mine.

Backstreet Meeting

Unlike me, someone properly dressed for the season.


I like the way the booze is stored in lockers outside the restaurant!

Bright Restaurant


Golden Gai

Back on the east side of Shinjuku Station, another area of interest is Golden Gai (新宿ゴールデン街) which is a group of narrow alleys packed with hundreds of ramshackle bars and restaurants, most only seating 5-6 people.

Neco Bar

Cat’s welcome.

Yamanote Line Commuters

After all that over-indulgence both areas are just a stones throw away from the train station and the chance to squeeze in with a million or so other commuters on your way home.


Originally from the UK, David is designer and wanderer currently based in Kamakura. Prior to this, he lived in China and still returns frequently to continue exploring this vast and varied land. He started Randomwire in 2003 to chronicle his travels and occasional musings. Feel free to drop him a line.

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