Kagurazaka

Since Tokyo is so spread out, one of the best way to explore its many interesting spots is by bicycle. On a recent two-wheeled jaunt around where I live in northern Shinjuku I came across Kagurazaka (神楽坂), one of the city’s oldest and lesser-known neighbourhoods near Iidabashi Station.

Iidabashi Station

The southern exit of the station deposits you on Iidabashi bridge (飯田橋) which spans both the river and train tracks below.

Train Lines

Incidentally the British Council have their offices here, not a bad location.

Kagurazaka from Iidabashi Bridge

Looking down the slope along Waseda Dori you can see the beginning of the main shopping street.

Iidabashi Bridge

Looking back up the bridge you can see the stone footprint of a former fort which once stood along the river.

Mini Mini

Almost every company in Japan seems to have a cute mascot for some reason – this real estate agent here being no exception.

Kagurazaka

Starbucks has a prime spot on the corner – if you’re looking for somewhere to work, the free wi-fi here is top-notch.

Kagurazaka Street

The leafy main avenue is lined with numerous small shops, cafes and restaurants.

Kagurazaka Side Alley

Down the narrow side streets and alleyways you can find many traditional restaurants called ryoutei (料亭), serving what’s considered the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine.

Side Street

Some of them are so exclusive that you won’t be allowed in without an invitation from a regular customer, a practice known as ichigensan okotowari (見さんお断り).

Pretty Pots

In the 1930’s the district was home to a large number geisha who entertained customers at the upmarket restaurants. If you’re lucky you might still spot one today although their numbers are dwindling.

Plant Stall

Pretty Pot Plants

Even though most Japanese homes don’t have gardens, many people still cultivate pretty pot plants which they sit on the curbs and window shelves outside. Japan is so safe that there’s little chance of them getting pinched.

Zenkoku-ji Temple Entrance

Midway along the street you’ll come across Zenkoku-ji, a small temple that looks great at night when all the lanterns are lit.

Cone Construction

If there’s one thing you’ll find plenty of in Tokyo it’s traffic cones that are meticulously (and often mysteriously) placed to warn and deter would-be deviants.

Vegetable Stall

A small fresh vegetable stall outside a restaurant.

Clean Shop

Clean Shop – in Japan you better believe it.

Tight Spot

Since the street is so narrow traffic can get a bit congested at times and parking is a novice drivers nightmare.

Akagi Shrine

One of the highlights at the upper end of Kagurazaka is Akagi Shrine (赤城神社) which was designed by acclaimed architect Kengo Kuma (隈 研吾) in 2010.

Tori Gates

On the ground level sits a smaller sub-shrine in one corner (does anyone know the correct terminology for this?).

Main Shrine Hall

The main hall follows the style of a traditional shrine with wooden beams but brings things up to date with glass curtain walls and a sleek metallic roof.

Wooden Exterior

Inner Shrine

Inside the shrine, things are equally simple and beautifully crafted.

Side Hall

To one side on a raised platform sits another open-sided structure.

Kagurazaka Apartments

Opposite is a modern apartment complex shrouded by shiny vertical louvers. It was built in order to fund the rest of the project and contains a restaurant and gallery space on the ground floor called Akagi Cafe.

Temple Man Gate

Unitron

Food Delivery Bike

The first time I saw one of these bikes I couldn’t quite work out what it was for but when I saw one being unloaded I found out they’re used for food delivery. The sprung suspension mechanism keeps the dishes level and prevents them spilling off.

Tiger on Toilet

The far end of the street isn’t particularly notable, except for a most bizarre window display containing a tiger sitting on a toilet. I have absolutely no idea what the motivation behind this is – the sign says something about water and sewage but even Japanese speakers are perplexed by what it means.

Open Plan

Even if you’re not going for a fancy dinner, Kagurazaka is well worth a visit for a fascinating stroll under the shady trees through the charismatic and traditional neighbourhood.

Comments

  1. MKL says:

    I love your Tokyo neighborhoods series. I wish Taipei was as nice to explore with a bike, but unfortunately it can’t compare to Tokyo in this regard.

    • David says:

      Thanks MKL – I seem to remember Taipei being rather hazardous for bicycles and pedestrians due to the huge number of mopeds!

  2. Alan says:

    ah the shrine things are called ‘torii’ 🙂 i hope i can vist tokyo one day and not just for the technology, would love to wander around the smaller areas

  3. Brian says:

    Thanks for going to Kagurazaka! My family is from there, and it’s my favorite part of town whenever I visit Japan.

    Something interesting about this area is that it has a large French expat population and French cafes and bistros! I think there’s a French school or two in the area, too.

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